OFF THE TRAIL: LISBON

While I intended this blog to be about hiking, I realized that when you travel internationally to hike, you’ll likely start in, finish in, or transit through a major city and that makes it part of the journey. So I’ve started a new blog category – Off The Trail – about the cities I pass through for a day or two on the way to somewhere else.
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I recently had an afternoon/one night stopover in Lisbon. What I love about Lisbon is that it’s a city designed for walking. Comfy shoes are required because the city is famous for its seven hills (or is it eight?). I’d been to Lisbon before and seen the major sights, so this time I wanted to wander around and find some hidden gems that might be a little off the tourist track. And I did just that. My Top Five Stops for an afternoon in Lisbon:

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A Vida Portuguesais

1. A Vida Portuguesais a beautiful, one-stop-shop for all things genuinely Portuguese. I always like to take a little something home with me from my trips. It usually has to be little because I travel very light and it has to fit in a carry-on sized suitcase or backpack. However, I may have lamented my choice of suitcase size as soon as I walked into this store. A Vida Portuguesa carries authentic Portuguese products that are not to be found in the typical tourist trinket shop. We stopped by the original location in the Chiado district at Rue Anchieta 11. It’s tucked away on a side street and you could easily walk by it without noticing as there is no big awning sign outside. The store is in an old perfume factory and they’ve kept the original dark wood shelves, which makes it feel like you’ve walked back in time. The store carries everything from olive oil and salt, Port and chocolate, jewelry and toiletries, books, stationary and toys, and more. You may find it hard to restrain yourself from buying one of everything as you browse the shelves. I can tell you it was for me.

Ceramicas Na Linha
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​2. Just around the corner from A Vida Portuguesa is the delightful ceramics store Ceramicas Na Linha at Rue Capelo 16. Ceramics are everywhere in Portugal, it’s one of the things it’s known for, but as much as I like the traditional white and blue painted bowls and plates that you can find all over the country, they just don’t suit my home’s modern esthetic. So when I walked into this store I was a wee bit excited – ceramics that fit my decor! They sell products individually and by weight (kg). Again, I could’ve bought so many items and may have actually cursed at my travelling light philosophy. The store carries every style from modern to country to eclectic. And the prices are amazing too – I picked up a small dark metallic grey dish for keeping cooking utensils on while I cook for only 4 Euros. I doubt you could walk out of this store empty handed.

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Cork & Co

3. If it’s cork products you’re looking for, go to Cork & Co for beautiful, well made products. Portugal is known for producing cork, which is a sustainable product. Cork products are everywhere you look in Lisbon but Cork & Co sells perhaps some of the most beautiful and well made designs. And designs that you can’t find anywhere else. You can find jewelry, placemats, lamp shades, wallets, handbags, umbrellas and more here – even men’s cork ties. Definitely worth popping in if you want something authentically cork for your house or closet. Cork & Co is only a few blocks away from #s 1 & 2 at Rua das Salgadeiras 10.


​Pois Cafe

4. Now that you’ve shopped a bit, you’re probably in need of some refreshment. Stroll on over to The Alfama District for some deliciousness at Pois Cafe at (Rua São João da Praça 93–95). Enter through a heavy curtain to find a cozy, shared table space under stone arches. You can settle into a comfy sofa or sit at a shared table. They serve brunch, lunch, dinner, and scrumptious cakes. Order a tea just so you can see their tea menu. This is a lovely find and a bonus – they have free wifi.

Miradouros

5. You can’t leave Lisbon with stopping at one of the many Miradouros (view points) and The Alfama has you covered here. It’s a bit of a trek up one of those famous Lisbon hills to Miradouro das Portas do Sol to get its breathtaking view over medieval Lisbon, which is amazing once you learn that nearly all of Lisbon was rebuilt after the devastating earthquake in 1755. Around the corner you’ll find another spot with a beautiful terrace, which overlooks the river, Miradouro de Santa Luzia. If you’re not inclined to walk back down the hill, catch the famous, albeit a little rickety, bumpy and generally tourist-filled Tram 28, which will take you through the windy streets of The Alfama, Chaido and the Barrio Alto. Or stroll down one of the windy streets and see what other hidden gems are ready for discovery in the labyrinth that is The Alfama.

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